In the most recent New York Review of Books (February 6, 2014), there's an exchange in the "Letters" section worth highlighting. Christof Koch, author of Consciousness: Confessions of a Romantic Reductionist and a professor of biology and engineering at Cal Tech, wrote a terse response to Jason Epstein's review of Dana Goodyear's book on extreme eating. Koch wrote, "I was appalled that in Jason Epstein's review . . .not a single mention is made of the fact that the penises, brains, hearts, and whole embryos that are now de rigueur to consume by our haute cuisine establishment derive from sentient creatures."
The NYRB has a habit of choosing the same writers to cover the same topics. That's typically fine because, in general, they tend to be brilliant thinkers and writers. I've therefore always been curious exactly how Epstein got the foodie beat at a publications with the high intellectual standards of NYRB. I say this not to be snarky, but rather to confirm my general impression, honestly developed over several years, that Epstein's reviews were thin soup compared to what appeared throughout the journal. To wit, he once praised one of Michael Pollan's toss-off post-Omnivore Dilemma books on the grounds that, in following some of Pollan's suggestions, he'd lost a few pounds. I'm pleased that Epstein lost some weight (I guess), but I hardly see how his body fat bears on the book's intellectual meat, something that NYRB readers purportedly care about.