Lab meat, even by today's industrialized standards, is a relatively outlandish proposition. But that hasn't kept media assessments from being surprisingly upbeat about its potential. In 2011, a normally skeptical Michael Specter warmed to the idea, writing in the New Yorker that, in terms of technology, a lab burger could viably approximate the taste and texture of a real burger and, in turn, offer a viable substitute for it. Costs were prohibitive, he noted, but then what successful technology wasn't unduly expensive at the outset?
In USA Today, Farm Sanctuary's advocacy director, Bruce Friedrich, pounced on the Oxford study to deem lab meat clean, green, and lean-not to mention a product that had him eager to "fire up the grill" and end the meat industry "as we know it."Others have been less sanguine. David Steele, a molecular biologist and head of Earthsave Canada, tells me that lab meat "is extraordinarily unlikely to work." Tens of thousands of calves, he notes, "will have their hearts punctured ... to collect the liter or so of serum that can be taken from them." The claim that lab meat might be propagated with blue algae, he says, "is patently absurd" as "no one has accomplished anything close." He also notes something so obvious I wish I had recalled it on my own: Cultured cells lack an immune system. As a result, according to Steele, "there will be a need for at least large doses of penicillin/streptomycin." Preventing the spread of viruses within these cultures "would be a huge additional problem." And as far as allergies go, who knows Daniel Engber, a science writer and editor at Slate, is equally downbeat about the future of cultured meat. He posted a piece earlier this month with a headline declaring lab meat to be "a waste of time." Acknowledging the ecological and welfare implications of the technology, he highlights what strikes me as a critical point: Lab meat only seems to be "real" when it's adulterated with food-like substances designed to "improve color, flavor, and mouthfeel."