The following review essay appeared in the Spring 2015 edition of The Virginia Quarterly Review. A link to the complete article is below. Please leave comments there.
The worst thing about sausage is that it has to be made. We know this because a generation of journalists has infiltrated North America's feedlots and slaughterhouses to expose the apparatus that churns out mass quantities of commodity meat. American agribusiness - wreaking havoc on animals, laborers, consumers, and planet Earth - is generally understood to be irredeemable. Today, enlightened consumers wouldn't be caught dead near a Big Mac. For what it's worth, that's progress.
The reformist lexicon that fuels the outrage resonates with the political right, left, and everyone in between. A libertarian Virginia farmer fumes over the "industrial agriculture complex." An Oxford-educated activist vents that "globalized corporate agriculture" has left us "stuffed and starved." A poet-farmer whose horse-drawn plow breaks up Kentucky soil laments how "the ideal industrial food consumer would be strapped to a table with a tube running from the food factory directly into his or her stomach." Yikes (and yuck).